tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post296113634169660787..comments2023-05-27T02:33:34.320-07:00Comments on Nikon CLS Practical Guide: 14. Basics of Flash Brackets and DiffusersRuss MacDonaldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-46246686743762949872011-09-05T08:58:17.583-07:002011-09-05T08:58:17.583-07:00Hi Russ,
now I get it. The problem was my english...Hi Russ,<br /><br />now I get it. The problem was my english-german translation/interpretation. You mean with "neutralization" something different than I understand.<br /><br />And: It's impressing that in TTL-BL the preflash has nearly <i>no</i> effect to 'power-measuring' (I understand, but displaced it..).<br /><br />Thanks for clarification.<br /><br />Servus,<br />HonkHonknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-45046697085443404272011-09-05T06:41:15.578-07:002011-09-05T06:41:15.578-07:00Hi again Honk,
No, the kleenex didn't neutral...Hi again Honk,<br /><br />No, the kleenex didn't neutralize the info from the meter. What I meant was that 'YOU' neutralized the meter information by making a controlled experiment. You made sure the info from the meter was the same for all shots. That removed that variable and the only problem was that you didn't understand the TTL-BL uses distance as primary when the head is pointed forward.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-90730280973868258252011-09-05T01:55:46.028-07:002011-09-05T01:55:46.028-07:00Hi Russ,
I don't catch on that a Kleenex neut...Hi Russ,<br /><br />I don't catch on that a Kleenex neutralize the info from the meter measuring circuit ("mmc").<br />I think, the "mmc" was mainly for the background or at least less important to TTL-BL (uses mainly distance instead of "mmc")?<br /><br />However, with your hint to "TTL-BL uses MAINLY the distance" (I know you have pointed out this before in your blogs so my question was redundant. Thanks again for your patience with your readers) the result (dark pic) is absolutely clear.<br />The distance tells the flash how strong it should power, not the preflash. The Kleenex spoilt this power.<br /><br />PS: Very nice info about the Nikon-Diffusor and the little switch.<br /><br />So TTL-BL IS unpredictable unless the user don't understand it all-embracing! But therefore we have you ;)<br /><br />Regards,<br />HonkHonknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-53155609424410875782011-09-04T14:29:09.246-07:002011-09-04T14:29:09.246-07:00Hi Honk,
TTL-BL mode uses lots of information to ...Hi Honk,<br /><br />TTL-BL mode uses lots of information to calculate the power of the flash. We already talked about the fact that it uses the information directly from the meter measuring circuit, and you have neutralized its effect.<br /><br />However, when the flash head is pointed forward, TTL-BL uses the distance to the subject as the primary input to compare with the metering data to then calculate the required flash power. The preflash is also used, but it has only a secondary effect on flash power when the head is pointed forward. In fact, the main reason for the preflash when using TTL-BL with the head pointed forward, is so the system can calculate white balance.<br /><br />So, when you placed the kleenex diffuser in front of the flash, it attenuated the flash power and the image became dark.<br /><br />I should point out that when you use the diffuser that was supplied with the flash, it pushes a little switch and that tells TTL-BL to increase the flash power to compensate for losses in the diffuser.<br /><br />This also explains why the images are dark when using a Gary Fong Light Sphere in TTL-BL mode. It turns out that that diffuser does not push the little switch on the flash head.<br /><br />When you tilt the flash head up to bounce, distance is no longer used in the TTL-BL mode, and the primary input comes from the reflected preflash. Unfortunately, TTL-BL does not work as well when you bounce as when the head is pointed straight forward. In fact, TTL-BL becomes somewhat unpredictable when you bounce.<br /><br />The bottom line is that for TTL-BL to work correctly, you should be in bright ambient conditions with no diffuser attached. Even the supplied diffuser that trips the switch on the flash is less predictable than regular TTL.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-12128568185957240892011-09-04T11:50:18.966-07:002011-09-04T11:50:18.966-07:00Hi Russ,
but in the test-case the background rema...Hi Russ,<br /><br />but in the test-case the background remains unchanged. So I expected the same TTL-BL/Kleenex flash-result as TTL-BL without Kleenex ("diffusor").<br /><br />I understand what is better to use in what case, especially with these results...<br /><br />TTL-BL seems very unpredictable.<br />So, when I make a pic without diffusor and another with diffusor (without bouncing), than these parameters remain unchanged:<br />- distance<br />- backlight (unless I put the towel in front of the Lens)<br /><br />What I now expect: Flash with towel (diffusor) = pre-flash should measure, that the main flash need much more power (like in regular TTL) due to passing the Kleenex.<br />What I get: A much darker pic (round -1). Doesn't make sense to me, due to non changed parameters for TTL-BL measurement (except pre-flash must go through a Kleenex).<br /><br />Or short: Why powers the flash in TTL higher (balance the diffusor-light-loss), in TTL-BL not?<br /><br />There must be a warning-sign on the flash: Use TTL-BL only direct, without diffusors/bouncing and never in dark conditions (just kidding).<br /><br />Regards,<br />HonkHonknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-86174457574074430802011-09-04T10:17:22.034-07:002011-09-04T10:17:22.034-07:00Hi Honk,
One thing that you have apparently misse...Hi Honk,<br /><br />One thing that you have apparently missed is that TTL-BL should only be used when you want to add fill. If you use TTL-BL to try to make it primary, then you pictures will often come out dark as the BL function reduces the brightness of the subject to get it closer to the background.<br /><br />Again: use regular TTL and camera Manual when you want the flash to be primary; ie, when in low ambient conditions (like in your suggested case). If you want the flash to add fill; ie, bright ambient conditions, use TTL-BL and the camera in P mode (or center the meter in Manual mode).<br /><br />Lastly, don't use any diffusion with TTL-BL mode. You don't need diffusion when all you are adding to the picture is slight fill. The diffuser messes up the balancing algorythms.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-35886724768744642982011-09-04T07:33:57.714-07:002011-09-04T07:33:57.714-07:00Hi Russ,
I've made a test and get unforeseen ...Hi Russ,<br /><br />I've made a test and get unforeseen results with softener and TTL-BL.<br /><br />Setup:<br />Cam in M (1/80, f4). Flash in TTL or TTL-BL (via Tipp #1, Matrix/Spot) & setup as shown below. Photo of a puppet, wall 4feet behind puppet. 5feet distance to puppet-Cam. Thin "Kleenex" (would learn how a very small softener without bouncing will work).<br /><br />1) TTL + direct: As expected.<br />2) TTL + direct + Kleenex: Histogram "nearly" like (1).<br />3) TTL-BL + direct: As expected. Histogram "nearly" like (1).<br />4) TTL-BL + direct + Kleenex: Now I get underexposed pic like a direct TTL-BL flash an with FEC -1 (!).<br /><br />I've tested Setup (4) in different conditions (in house) and I get always an pic like a -1 FEC. In regular TTL all will be fine. But TTL-BL...<br />First I think about reflections which irritate TTL-BL, but as well when I play around with the setup (greater room, distances), I get always a very dark result with TTL-BL and the direct "Kleenex". I expect, that (3) & (4) must be approximately the same (Histogram). But like approx. -1 FEC?<br /><br />Do you have an explanation about this habit?<br />Maybe it's my old D200 (+SB-900), which result to this effect.<br /><br />Regards,<br />HonkHonknoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-16859094870796037072011-01-08T05:40:43.420-08:002011-01-08T05:40:43.420-08:00Hi again Liju,
I take a test bounceshot and check...Hi again Liju,<br /><br />I take a test bounceshot and check the exposure in the histogram. If it's good, then I shoot bounce shots. If not, I usually get rid of the bracket and attach the Fong Light Sphere.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-45337085701364137522011-01-07T22:26:39.202-08:002011-01-07T22:26:39.202-08:00Thank you Russ, what if the ceiling is high or of ...Thank you Russ, what if the ceiling is high or of a non-light color? Would you recommend pointing the flash straight on?Liju Augustinehttp://lfotos.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-19610216273798540852011-01-06T22:39:09.589-08:002011-01-06T22:39:09.589-08:00Hi Liju,
Yes, flash photography is lots of fun on...Hi Liju,<br /><br />Yes, flash photography is lots of fun once you fully understand what your flash is doing. It can be very discouraging when you don't understand what it is doing.<br /><br />For people photography, and assuming the ceiling isn't some weird color (orange or red are the worst) I usually use the small snap-on diffuser and angle the head up at about 60 degrees toward the ceiling. If the ceiling is low, I point it straight up. That will make softer light and better skin tones with more definition in the facial features.<br /><br />I normally do not add a big diffuser like the Gary Fong Light Sphere on top of the bracket, because the whole rig gets top-heavy.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-48941522498453144412011-01-06T19:39:51.719-08:002011-01-06T19:39:51.719-08:00Russ,
I have been reading your posts on CLS and ...Russ, <br /><br />I have been reading your posts on CLS and I have to say, you have done a great job in persuading fence sitters like me to flash photography. I am staring to use flash more often and I recently bought a bracket. My question is about the flash angle when on a bracket. Would you recommend the flash to be angled 45 degree or straight on, when working with a flash bracket. <br /><br />Thanks <br />Liju AugustineLiju Augustinehttp://lfotos.wordpress.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-21034610494429699492010-11-14T15:29:37.357-08:002010-11-14T15:29:37.357-08:00Once again ,thank you so much for the advise.It he...Once again ,thank you so much for the advise.It helps a lot to learn.<br /><br />The new lightsphere collapsable has an option to collapse it while it is stil on the flash (of course ,the dome has to be taken off) .<br /><br />Probably you already know this, just sharing it for the benefit of other readers.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />BipinBipin Nairhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05843104790177976815noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-86766574359277035192010-11-14T05:51:03.422-08:002010-11-14T05:51:03.422-08:00Hi Bipin,
Yes, I recommend the Light Sphere point...Hi Bipin,<br /><br />Yes, I recommend the Light Sphere pointed straight up with the inverted dome in place, if you are within 12 feet.<br /><br />Farther than that, out to about 20 feet, you can point the LS directly at the subject, using the inverted dome. You will only get a small amount of softening.<br /><br />Beyond 20 feet, take the inverted dome off, leaving the bare flash. This doesn't give any softening, but it saves you have to remove the LS from the flash.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-15244013122928649892010-11-13T23:23:20.087-08:002010-11-13T23:23:20.087-08:00Thank you so much for the answer Russ.
Just to cl...Thank you so much for the answer Russ.<br /><br />Just to clarify.Will it help using a lightsphere outdoors to soften the light ?<br /><br />When using TTL-BL outdoors (as fill) , if there is no wall to bounce ,do you suggest pointing flash straight to the subject (with no diffuser) ?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />BipinBipin Nairhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05843104790177976815noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-34793688043810685692010-11-13T23:19:03.967-08:002010-11-13T23:19:03.967-08:00This comment has been removed by the author.Bipin Nairhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05843104790177976815noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-43040678063104825862010-11-11T21:12:59.693-08:002010-11-11T21:12:59.693-08:00Hi Bipin Nair,
No, I have not used the collapsabl...Hi Bipin Nair,<br /><br />No, I have not used the collapsable Light Sphere. However, the principle is the same. If it is the same size as the regular LS, and it is cloud colored, then it should work just as well.<br /><br />At 15 feet outdoors, almost anything you do will still leave you with a near point source. I can see just a little softening with the LS vertical, but usually so little that it is not worth the power loss. So, just to avoid taking the LS off, I sometimes point it straight forward, not for diffusion, but to simple increase its power a little - and I am lazy!<br /><br />When I am closer to the subject, and I want to make the background go dark, I sometimes point the LS straight forward, to kill the bounce. It still gives you pretty good softening of the direct light inside six feet, and it almost eliminates the bounce. In a small room, that can sometimes help to isolate the subject from the background.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-43191133148998827572010-11-11T20:37:21.018-08:002010-11-11T20:37:21.018-08:00Excellent and very informative.Thanks for sharing ...Excellent and very informative.Thanks for sharing Russ.<br />After going through this post ,I have searched for Gary Fong Lightsphere and saw that there is a new collapsable version.It looks like Cloud ,but one of the demo video shows that it actually is see through ,but not Clear. Did you get a chance to use this? any comments ?<br />Also ,when you use lightsphere outdoors ,in a condition where you are only 15 feet (or less) away from subject and no walls or anything to bounce ,do you point it straight to the subject ? Also , do you use the Dome in such situations?<br /><br />Thanks once again Russ.<br /><br />BipinBipin Nairhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05843104790177976815noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-59325071147771636752009-08-12T13:16:26.389-07:002009-08-12T13:16:26.389-07:00great blog! I was wondering what are your thoughts...great blog! I was wondering what are your thoughts on this one?<br />http://photo-tips-online.com/review/lumiquest-softbox-iii-flash-diffuser/<br /> <br />You said big ones are better, this one's much bigger than Gary, does it mean it'll be better? I am just looking for a nice universal diffuserAlexandra Holtzmanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06650457541831865468noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-79314927233560655512009-07-28T14:10:27.343-07:002009-07-28T14:10:27.343-07:00Hi Ross,
Thanks so much for the nice feedback. No...Hi Ross,<br /><br />Thanks so much for the nice feedback. No, I don't mind you printing them out. Don't forget to read the Q&A after each blog. I've discussed many new points there that I have not had time to go back and add to the main bodies of the blogs.<br /><br />Also, although I do use the flash off-camera quite often in my own work, I haven't talked much about it in my blogs. I plan to do that in the future, but so far, the on-camera issues have been enough to deal with.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-90136492965272653232009-07-28T13:19:44.044-07:002009-07-28T13:19:44.044-07:00Absolutely outstanding your Blog Russ, i hope you ...Absolutely outstanding your Blog Russ, i hope you don't mind i have printed your articles out into a book, very helpful and much appreciated. <br /><br />I use a D90 as well as D300 and i'm starting to get into off camera flash. Had the SB-600 for quite sometime and added the SB-800 to my kit. I'm relatively new to Nikons CLS system so your Blog came in real handy for me.<br /><br />Thanks again <br /><br />Ross from Auckland, NZ.R.Campbellhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04878923984431976929noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-42769356499530479522009-07-15T04:33:07.764-07:002009-07-15T04:33:07.764-07:00Hi Ovidiu,
I like the Cloud LS better than the Cl...Hi Ovidiu,<br /><br />I like the Cloud LS better than the Clear, because it makes softer light and only reduces the flash distance a small amount.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-53988204786801785462009-07-15T03:55:23.930-07:002009-07-15T03:55:23.930-07:00Russ.
Thank you for your answer and sorry to both...Russ. <br />Thank you for your answer and sorry to bother you again. Which LS would you recommend? The clear version or the Cloud one?<br />Many thanks again for all your help.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09769042919720858500noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-12451171181243713042009-07-14T13:27:41.625-07:002009-07-14T13:27:41.625-07:00Hi Ovidiu,
I don't use soft boxes when I shoo...Hi Ovidiu,<br /><br />I don't use soft boxes when I shoot on-location, for the very reason that they are hard to handle. I find that unbrellas work just as well, and they are easy to handle.<br /><br />In fact, I often use just a Gary Fong Light Sphere II at weddings (when I am too short on time to set up the umbrtellas). It does a great job of softening the light for many situations.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-9885097046020515162009-07-14T12:47:56.580-07:002009-07-14T12:47:56.580-07:00Hi Russ and thank you for all your help. Do you, b...Hi Russ and thank you for all your help. Do you, by any chance, have any experience with the Lastolite EZYBox? I contemplate getting a 60cm square and wonder if they are any good for weddings. Please note that I shoot without any assistant..so I dont know how am I going to manage to hold the camera and the soft box. Any tips?<br />Thank you<br />OvidiuAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09769042919720858500noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9113726419970930271.post-9920328238896781162009-07-10T17:48:30.544-07:002009-07-10T17:48:30.544-07:00Hi Chris,
I try to stay within 10 feet of my subj...Hi Chris,<br /><br />I try to stay within 10 feet of my subjects when using the LS. That gives me very nice softening, especially when there is a good ceiling bounce.<br /><br />Beyond 10 feet, you will sometimes run out of flash power, in addition to losing softening.<br /><br />Some people point the LS directly at the subject when farther away, but I have tried that and I see very little benefit over a bare flash.<br /><br />RussRuss MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15288785902650834143noreply@blogger.com